In Namibia's vast Kunene Region you don't measure a trip from here to there in distance; you measure it in time. Palmwag and Desert Rhino Camp in the southern Kunene are ten nautical miles apart. Ask someone at Palmwag where Desert Rhino Camp is and he will point westwards and say net oor die bult or just over the ridge. To drive between the two - on a rough track through the Palmwag concession - takes over an hour. Walking there is a day-long hike over rocky ridges and down steep valleys. By aircraft it is a three and a half minute flight.